"Here is a picture of our tandem we built with the help of your article. We used two old mountain bike frames with 4130 main tubes. I also used the top tube from a Raleigh rod brake roadster for the bottom tube."
"The right side drive works very well. I originally used an old but new condition Shimano GT300 long cage derailer, but it did not shift very easily. I replaced it with an RSX and together with the HG 90 cassette and the non-indexed suntour barends shifting is very good. My son Dylan and I have put about 300 miles on it so far and are planning to take the tandem on Bike Virginia in June."
This is the same drive setup suggested by John Allen in his Tandem Drive Train article.
In real life, Matt works for Seven Cycles, and threw this cruiser together just for fun.
This is a fine example of the "phantom chainring" solution to the chain tensioner problem.
Unfortunately, I've misplaced the name and address of the builder, who, if memory serves, was from New Hampshire.
I built this tandem with help from my wife's father. I designed, filed and make it straight. He brazed everything together. I know how to braze but i am not as good at it as him.
We took 2 mid-level cromoly MTB frames. The front one is a 22 inch, and the rear is 20 inch. Using Sheldon's method, we put the bottom brackets at the same height (more or less 1/4 inch). Instead of using chainstay (I used them to made a BOB-copy-trailer) we braze a 1.5 inch steel boom tube. The bike is really rigid almost like a real tandem.
I ride it with my wife and all seems to be ok. The handling is special since head angle is 71 degree. Most tandem have 73 degree head angle with lot of fork rake. My home made tandem is more sensitive than a regular one but nothing I can't live with.
Here are the full specs (May change anytime for better or worse!):
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