Bottom Brackets
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Part 1

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What is the Bottom Bracket?

bottom bracket shellThe bottom bracket is the part of the frame around which the pedal cranks revolve, also the bearings and axle assembly that runs through the bottom bracket shell of the frame.

The bottom-bracket shell may be unthreaded, like the one at the left (photo credit: ConnollyB, Wikimedia Commons), with bearing parts press-fit or clamped in place inside the shell. On the other hand, the bottom-bracket shell may be threaded internally at each end, so the bearing parts thread in. The bearing parts may be pre-assembled bearing cartridges or traditional cup-and-cone assemblies.

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This pre-assembled bearing cartridge threads into a bottom bracket shell.
The cranks attach to the square tapers at each end and are secured by bolts.

SKF cartidge bottom bracket

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Traditional cup-and-cone bottom bracket parts: lockring, left bearing cup,
bearing retainer, spindle, bearing retainer, right bearing cup.
The bearing cups thread into the shell.
The cranks are secured to this spindle by nuts rather than bolts.
Photo by Rado bladteth Rzeznicki from Wikimedia Commons.

Cup ad cone bottom bracket parts

External

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A conventional cup-and-cone bottom bracket. The lockring wrench is about to loosen the lockring, the pin wrench is engaging two of the holes in the adjustable cup A cartridge bottom bracket. The splined tool is shown above the bottom bracket. The crank would need to be removed to actually use the tool. Old American-style "Ashtabula" One-piece Crank Bottom Bracket
The lock nut and the cone behind it have a left-hand thread . The bearing cups face outward and are press-fit into the shell.
Three piece adjustable cup-and-cone bottom bracket Three piece sealed cartridge bottom bracket American Ashtabula one-piece crank bottom bracket

Part 2

An old American term for "bottom bracket" is "hanger". This is usually used in connection with one-piece cranks.

Bottom brackets come in different sizes, according to the nationality of the frame.

Standard: Threading Adjustable
(left) cup/cone
direction
Fixed
(right) cup/cone
direction
Shell
Width
Applications/Notes
British
I.S.O.
1.370" X 24 tpi
1.375" X 24 tpi
right left Standard 68 mm
O.S. 73 mm
The overwhelming majority of bicycles in current production. British and I.S.O. are interchangeable.
Shimano Hollowtech II, FSA MegaExo, RaceFace X-type ISO right left 90 mm, 95 mm including cups External cups for cartridge bearings fit British/ISO threaded bottom brackets or unthreaded shell. 24 mm spindle, spacer to use 6805 bearings with 25mm I.D.. Bottom bracket shell must be faced so cups are parallel.
Campagnolo Ultra-torque Italian or ISO       Spindle diameter 25mm.
Chater Lea 1.450 x 26 TPI right left   Obsolete British size but available from Phil Wood & Co.
French 35 mm X 1mm (25.4 tpi) right right
(wrong!)
68 mm Obsolete, used on older French bicycles.
Prone to problems due to the right-threaded fixed cup, which tends to unscrew itself in use.
ISIS Overdrive I 48 x 1.5 mm right left 68mm
100 mm
 
ISIS Overdrive II 48 x 1.5 mm right left 68mm
100 mm
New proposed standard oversized system.
Italian 36 mm X 24 tpi right right
(wrong!)
70 mm Italian and some high-end French bicycles. Prone to problems due to the right-threaded fixed cup, which tends to unscrew itself in use.
Phil Wood American Isis (comments) 50 mm right left   1.5 mm thread pitch.
Raleigh 1 3/8" X 26 tpi right left 71 mm
76 mm
Older British-made Raleighs, 3 speeds and others from the Nottingham factory.
Swiss 35 mm X 1mm (25.4 tpi) right left 68 mm Same thread as French, but fixed cup is left- threaded for reliability.

What happens if you try to mix different sizes:

Bottom Bracket
Shell Threading
(Below)
BritishI.S.O.
1.37/1.375" x 24 tpi CUPS R-L
(34.8/34.9 x 1.06 mm)
Italian
36 mm X 24 tpi CUPS R-R
(1.417" x 1.06 mm)
French
35 mm X 1mm CUPS R-R
(1.378 x 25.4 tpi)
Swiss
35 mm X 1mm CUPS R-L
(1.378 x 25.4 tpi)
Raleigh
1 3/8" X 26 tpi
CUPS R-L
(34.9 x 1.06 mm)
British/I.S.O.
1.37/1.375" x 24 tpi
(34.8/34.9 x 1.06 mm)
Made to Fit 36 mm Cup diameter is too large, thread won't even start. Cup diameter is slightly too large, usually won't start.
Right (fixed) cup threaded in the opposite direction.
Cup diameter is slightly too large, usually won't start. Diameter matches, but thread pitch does not.

Will bind after only a few threads are engaged.

Italian
36 mm X 24 tpi
(1.417" x 1.06 mm)
British/I.S.O. cups fall through Made to Fit Italian shells are larger diameter, all other size cups fall right through, threads will not engage.
French
35 mm X 1mm
(1.378 x 25.4 tpi)
35 mm = 1.378". Shell is slightly larger, thread pitch slightly finer.
Left side may seem to fit, but will be loose.
36 mm Cup diameter is too large, thread won't even start. Made to Fit Left (adjustable) side is interchangeable.
Right (fixed) side is threaded in the opposite direction, won't fit.
35 mm = 1.378". Shell is slightly larger, thread pitch slightly coarser.
Left side may seem to fit, but will be loose.
Swiss
35 mm X 1mm
(1.378 x 25.4 tpi)
35 mm = 1.378". Shell is slightly larger, thread pitch slightly finer. May seem to fit, but will be loose. 36 mm Cup diameter is too large, thread won't even start. Left (adjustable) side is interchangeable.
Right (fixed) side is threaded in the opposite direction, won't fit.
Made to Fit 35 mm = 1.378". Shell is slightly larger, thread pitch slightly coarser.
May seem to fit, but will be loose.
Raleigh
1 3/8" X 26 tpi
(34.9 x 0.977 mm)
Diameter matches, but thread pitch does not.

Will bind after only a few threads are engaged.

36 mm Cup diameter is too large, thread won't even start. Cup diameter is slightly too large, usually won't start.
Right (fixed) cup threaded in the opposite direction.
Cup diameter is slightly too large, usually won't start. Made to Fit

Chainline Standards:

Application Dimension Notes
Track/Coaster Brake
Traditional One-Speed
Most internal gear hubs
40.5-42 mm Older bikes with 110 spacing would be on the smaller end of this range
Newer bikes with 120 mm spacing normally use 42 mm
Road Double 43.5 mm Shimano spec, measured to the midpoint between the rings.
with typical 5 mm chainring spacing, this puts the inner at 41 mm, the outer at 46 mm.
Road Triple 45 mm Shimano spec, measured to the middle ring.
Singlespeed MTB
Alternate
47.5 mm White Industries ENO hubs use this chainline, which lines up with the middle position of a typical MTB triple.
It's also fairly close to the outer position of a typical "road" double.
MTB Triple 47.5-50 mm Shimano spec, measured to the middle ring.
47.5 preferred, but for frames with oversized seat tubes, the longer dimension may be needed, because the fat tube places the front derailer mechanism farther to the right. SRAM standard chainline is 49mm with 142mm OLD and thru axle
Singlespeed and Single-chainwheel MTB, "Boost 148" 52 mm Wider chainline need for chainstay clearance on newer MTBs,
typically with disc brakes and 148 mm OLD spacing
This is close to the chainline of the outer ring of a typical MTB triple.
Rohloff Speedhub 54 mm
(58 mm w/13 tooth)
Sprockets are proprietary, threaded. All except the 13-tooth may be flipped over to double wear life.
Freeride and Downhill 55 mm Newer Freeride and Downhill bikes with 150 mm spacing
Tandem about 60 mm Tandems with 160 mm spacing
Fatbike 66 mm Fatbikes with 170 mm spacing
Fatbike 76 mm Fatbikes with 190 mm spacing -- needed with 4.8" (125 mm) wide tires.

Standard bottom-bracket bearing assemblies are specified in terms of width of the bottom bracket shell (generally 68, 70 or 73 mm) and the length of the spindle (102 - 130 mm.)

Current usage generally assumes that 68 and 73 mm bottom bracket units are for British/ISO threaded frames, and that 70 mm units are for Italian threaded frames.

The spindle length mainly depends on what kind of crankset you'll be using, and doesn't have much to do with the frame. New cranks come with a spec sheet that lists what length spindle they are intended to be used with. Sometimes two lengths are listed. When this is the case, the longer size is for use on frames with fat seat tubes, because such frames put the front derailer mechanism farther to the right than on a frame with a standard seat tube.

See also my article on Bottom Bracket Sizes for information on matching spindles to cranks.

See also my article on Bottom Bracket Tapers.

My Tool Tips series includes related articles on Cottered, and Cotterless crank removal, as well as tools for disassembly and adjustment of cup-and-cone bottom brackets.

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Part 2a

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Part 3

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