Accessories Bicycles Parts Specials Tools

Search sheldonbrown.com and sheldonbrown.org

Disassembly of Sturmey-Archer Hubs

1. Unscrew everything from the left-hand end of the axle

When gear and brake controls and electrical wires (if any) have been disconnected and the wheel removed from the cycle frame , dismantling of the hub begins with the removal of the left-hand locknut, the washers (if any) and the left-hand cone. A note should always be made of their order and number so that they may be put back correctly when the hub is re-assembled. In particular, different numbers of spacer washers may be fitted, depending on the spacing and chainline.

Left Axle Nut
Left Axle Nut HMN128
HMN128
Axle Washer
Axle Washer
HMW155 or HMW494
Locknut
Locknut hmn132
HMN132
Spacer
Spacer HMW129
HMW129
Cone
Cone HSA101
HSA101
The parts shown above are common to most models that do not incorporate a brake.

Models With Built-in Brake:

Where a brake is incorporated in the hub, the brake unit must be removed before the left-hand cone can be unscrewed. The last washer to be taken off before coming to the brake plate is the notched adjusting washer which fits over the flats on the end of the cone for normal wheel adjustment purposes. When this notched washer has been taken off, lift out the brake arm and shoes as a complete unit, and then proceeds to unscrew the left-hand cone.

Models With Dynohub Generator:

Similarly, the generator must first be removed from hubs incorporating a Dynohub lighting unit. The procedure is explained in detail in the appropriate chapters of this section of the catalogue

Spoke Divider

Spoke Divider

2. Unscrew the right-hand ball ring and internal assembly

Next, use a hammer and punch to unscrew the right-hand ball ring

As you withdraw the internal assembly, try to avoid touching the low-gear pawls while the unit is held sprocket-side up, because there is a risk of the pawl pins falling out if you relieve the spring tension that holds them in place.

The right hand ball ring has a two-start thread and must be replaced in its original position, that position must be marked. String or adhesive tape may be attached to the spoke nearest to the letters ' SA' which are stamped in one of the notches on the ring. The whole internal can now be withdrawn from the hub shell. (This is rarely a problem in practice.)

This is a standard right-hand thread, turn it counterclockwise to remove it.

Removal of the right-hand ball ring in the case of the TCW is described the chapter headed To Dismantle the TCW Hub.

In all other cases, the right-hand ball ring, which has a right-hand thread, is loosened by means of a 'C' spanner or a hammer and square-ended punch against one of the notches. If it is required to remove the sprocket, insert a thin screwdriver in the groove of the driver which comes nearest to the opening in the circlip and prise off the circlip. The spacing washers, sprocket and outer dust cap may then be lifted off the driver. There must always be two 1/16" washers. Careful note should be made of their position and also whether the sprocket offset is facing inwards or outwards, as they must all be put back in the same way in order to maintain the original chain line.

Back to Sturmey-Archer Service

Spoke Divider

Spoke Divider

Articles by Sheldon Brown and others
Harris
Home
Beginners Brakes Commuting
Lights
Cycle-
Computers
Do-It-
Yourself
Essays
Family
Cycling
Fixed Gear
Singlespeed
Frames Gears &
Drivetrain
Bicycle
Humor
Bicycle
Glossary
Bicycle
Links
Old
Bikes
Repair
Tips
Tandems Touring What's
New
Wheels Sheldon
Brown

Accessories Bicycles Parts Specials Tools

Thanks to Jane Thomas, who originated these pages,
later revised © 2007 by Sheldon Brown

Harris Cyclery Home Page

If you would like to make a link or bookmark to this page, the URL is:
http://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer/disassembly.html

Last Updated: by Harriet Fell