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Chain maintenance is one of the most controversial aspects of bicycle mechanics. Chain durability is affected by riding style, gear choice, whether the bicycle is ridden in rain or snow, type of soil in the local terrain, type of lubricant, lubrication techniques, and the sizes and condition of the bicycle's sprockets. Because there are so many variables, it has not been possible to do controlled experiments under real-world conditions. As a result, everybody's advice about chain maintenance is based on anecdotal "evidence" and experience. Experts disagree on this subject, sometimes bitterly. This is sometimes considered a "religious" matter in the bicycle community, and much vituperative invective has been uttered in this regard between different schismatic cults.
This article is based on my personal and professional experience and my own theories. If you disagree with them, I won't call you a fool or a villain, you may be right. I hope you will extend me the same courtesy.
[And a comment from John Allen: the problem becomes religious because it addresses mysteries of existence, life and death (of chains...) to which there is no clear and obvious answer -- as long as the chain is exposed to dirt.
On the other hand...the Sunbeam oil-bath full chain case solved this problem in 1908. High-end Raleigh Industries three-speeds were available with a full chain case as late as the 1950s, and their chain life was impressive. In the 21st century we are beginning to see chain cases again: high-impact molded plastic ones, rather than complicated sheet-metal assemblies.
Chain cases have only ever been marketed for single-sprocket utility bicycles, they are an extra-cost item and they add weight and complication. All derailer chains and most single-sprocket chains run bare, exposed to dirt. Belt drive is sometimes put forward as a solution, but it has its own serious problems and limitations.
Name your poison, as the saying goes. I might as well finish here with a quote from a philosopher whose writings helped spark the French Revolution.]
Man is born free but everywhere he is in chains.
The past fifteen years [as of Sheldon's writing, in 1996] have seen many revolutions in bicycle design. Some of them have been conspicuously visible, such as the development of mountain bikes, disc wheels, new handlebar designs. Some have been less visible, but just as important, including clipless pedals, cyclecomputers, indexed shifting.
There has also been an invisible and little noted revolution in the construction of bicycle chains. People don't pay much attention to bicycle chains. After all, they all look basically alike. Derailers are much more interesting to look at and talk about, but it is still the chain that has to do the shifting.
An old-style bicycle chain has ten parts per link. The typical 57-link chain used on the average multispeed bike had 570 parts, more than the whole rest of the bicycle put together. There were 114 outer plates, 114 inner plates, 114 rollers, 114 rivets, and 114 bushings.
The major revolution in chain design has been the introduction of the bushingless chain. The first of this type was the Sedisport (now made by SRAM), and it has acquired such a good reputation that other manufacturers have copied the design.
Bushingless chains have only eight parts per link. You cannot tell by looking at a chain on a bike whether it is of bushingless design, because the bushings are hidden by other parts of the chain. The bushings can only be seen if you disassemble the chain.
In a conventional chain, the two inner side plates are held together by tubular bushings, which are like hollow rivets. If you open a link of conventional chain, you can see the ends of the bushings flush with the outsides of the inner side plates. When the chain is assembled, the outer side plates hide the ends of the bushings. The middles of the bushings are not visible because they are surrounded by the rollers.
The rivets that hold the chain together run through the middle of the bushings, and the rollers roll around the outside of the bushings, so both the inside and the outside surfaces of the bushings are subject to wear.
The inner side plates of a bushingless chain are three-dimensional. Instead of having a simple hole at each end with a bushing pressed through it, each inner side plate hole has a protruding shoulder that amounts to half of a bushing. Since the side plates have an inside and an outside determined by the existence of the shoulders, they can also have bevels on the inside edges without further complicating the manufacturing process. These bevels permit the chain to run more smoothly when it is not perfectly lined up with the sprocket than a conventional chain with flat inner plates. They probably also improve shifting performance.
Since the "bushing" of a bushingless chain is made up of two halves that don't connect directly with each other, this type of chain is more flexible sideways than a conventional chain. This is because the two halves of the "bushing" have a bit of "wiggle room" with respect to each other.
Cyclists often speak of chain "stretch", as if the side plates of an old chain were pulled out of shape by the repeated stresses of pedaling. This is not actually how chains elongate. The major cause of chain "stretch" is wearing away of the metal where the rivet rotates inside of the bushing (or the "bushing" part of the inside plate) as the chain links flex and straighten as the chain goes onto and off of the sprockets. If you take apart an old, worn-out chain, you can easily see the little notches worn into the sides of the rivets by the inside edges of the bushings. With bushingless chains, the inside edge of the side plate hole that rubs against the rivet has a smooth radius instead of a sharp corner. This probably contributes to the greater durability of bushingless chains.
|You can see how the rivet of this unusually badly worn chain has been worn away.
Note also how the roller has flopped out of position.
|The reason the roller flops around is that the "bushing" part of the chain has been eroded away.
No doubt the inner surface of the roller has become enlarged as well.
In my estimation, a major reason for the greater durability of bushingless chains is the improved flow of lubricant to the vulnerable parts of the chain.
There are three points where a chain needs lubrication. First, and most importantly, the rivets need to be lubricated where they move inside the inner links as the chain bends and straightens. Second, the insides of the rollers need lubrication to let them revolve freely around the bushings as they engage and disengage the sprocket teeth. If the rollers don't roll, they slide along the sprocket teeth, causing accelerated sprocket wear. Third, the surface where the outer side plates overlap the inner side plates can benefit from lubrication as well, although this contact surface is much more lightly loaded than the first two.
When a conventional chain is oiled, before oil can reach inside of the bushings to lubricate the rivets, it has to pass between the inner side plates and the outer side plates. With usual oiling techniques, such as sprays, the oil tries to get into both ends of the bushing at once. Air bubbles can get trapped in the space between the rivets and the bushings, and with oil at both ends of the bushings there is no place for the air bubbles to escape. In addition, the cracks between the inner and outer side plates are highly exposed to road dirt, and are often quite grungy. Thus, even if you are able to get oil into the bushing, it is likely to be contaminated.
The air bubble problem may also exist with lubricant flow into the inside of the roller to let it turn freely around the bushing, but the shorter length and larger diameter of the roller, compared to the inside of the bushing, probably make this a non-issue. The contamination problem here is also probably less severe, because the sprockets tend to clean the rollers off automatically.
With bushingless chains, the lubricant flow is entirely different. If oil is applied to the rollers, it can easily flow into both sides of the rollers, because air (and oil) can flow through the gap between the "half bushings". If a bushingless chain is only oiled on the rollers, for instance by a narrow-spout oil can, the oil is able to flow into both sides of the rollers, through the gap and onto the middles of the rivets. The oil then flows out along the rivets to the side-plate junctions. Since the side plates are oiled from the inside, there is a natural self-flushing action that brings dirt and sand out of the chain instead of into it.
The rollers themselves are cleaned by contact with the sprockets.
Many cyclists oil their chains by spraying, usually aiming the spray can at the rear of the derailer cage, because this reduces the risk of overspray getting on their rims or tires. In my opinion, spray lubricants should not be used on bicycle chains, because they get too much oil where you don't need it and/or too little where you do.
Most of the schmutz that contaminates a chain is stuff that is thrown up by the front tire. This lands on the outer circumference of the chain. For this reason, you should always oil a chain on the inner circumference, the side that faces the sprockets. This decreases the tendency of the oil to carry crud into the interior bearing surfaces of the chain. The best way to apply the oil is with a drip-type oil can, along the top of the lower run of the chain. This applies the oil to the cleanest part of the chain. [But -- you never really get a chain clean unless you wash it. Some of the grit is metal wear particles from the sprockets and from the chain itself. Aluminum oxide from chainrings makes chain dirt black -- and it is very hard and abrasive. Grinding wheels are made of aluminum oxide! -- John Allen]
I just run the pedals backwards while applying a line of oil down the rollers. It takes 15 or 20 seconds to oil a chain this way. In the case of old-fashioned bushing-type chains, I usually run the oil along the left side only, in hope that the clean oil will be able to flush through the bushings from left to right. I have used many different oils, my favorite is Phil Wood Tenacious oil.
[Another note from John Allen: I tried Phil Oil and I disagree, especially if the chain is lubricated while on the bicycle. It's great for brake pivots and the like. On a chain, it works fine at first, but "tenacious" means that it is sticky. When applying it, and turning the crank, it forms little strings that break and splatter the bicycle. With time, Phil Oil accumulates dirt, turning to sludge that is hard to clean off the chain and sprockets. I'm trying automotive automatic transmission fluid instead now. I think that it may continue to lubricate for long enough and be easier to clean -- though long-term experimentation results are not yet in...]
This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact.
Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant. Don't do this!
The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will dilute the factory lube.
[This type of lubricant, like wax, needs to be heated during application, but it could be applied at home or in the bike shop too, if available -- John Allen]
While it's hard to say which lubricants are best for chains, some lubricants are real no-nos:
The traditional way to clean a bicycle chain is to remove it from the bike, then soak and scrub it in solvent. This is a problem with newer chains, however. Improved sprocket design, such as Shimano's "Hyperglide" system have made it possible to shift under full power, which is very stressful to chains. (Older derailer systems with plain sprockets required the rider to ease up on the pedals while shifting.)
To withstand these high stresses, modern chains have rivets that are tighter fitting into the chain plates. The new rivets are difficult to remove and reinstall without damaging either the rivet or the side plate. [The thinner side plates of 9- and higher-speed chains worsen this problem -- John Allen].
If you wish to make a habit of cleaning your chain off-the-bike, the best approach is to buy a master link, such as the SRAM PowerLink -- available separately, but it also comes with new SRAM chains. This permits removal and re-installation of the chain without pressing out a link pin. Looking at the link pins of the PowerLink also lets you inspect for chain wear. Install a new chain and PowerLink at the same time, so the links are all the same length.
[The 7 or 8 speed SRAM PowerLink works with SRAM and Shimano chains, probably others too. The 9-speed PowerLink works reliably with SRAM chains, but it reportedly may lead to a Shimano chain's jumping forward.
The 10-speed SRAM Powerlock (note different name) is good for one-time use only: This results in annoying expense, and also the replacement link is shorter than the other links, and can result in a noticable "clunk" each time it comes around. You're better off sticking with 9 or fewer rear sprockets.
You can easily remove a PowerLink by placing the jaws of a needle-nose pliers diagonally across the link to press the side plates out of position. You can use larger-jaw pliers if you form a "Z" of chain links with the PowerLink as the diagonal part. This is easiest if the chain is hanging slack. Park Tool also has a special tool for PowerLink removal, and this is easiest of all.
Shimano chains 9-speed and up are only reattachable by inserting a special. new link pin, using a special tool -- John Allen]
I used to use a parts cleaning tank and a toothbrush to clean chains, but Zaven Ghazarian, an excellent mechanic I used to work with, came up with a better system: drop the chain into a plastic Coke bottle with a couple of ounces of un-diluted citrus degreaser, cap it, and shake thoroughly. Fish the chain out with a spoke, rinse in water, and you are all set! (I am told that Pepsi bottles also work, and are easier to remove the chain from, because they have a wider mouth...but I'm a Coke guy, not a Pepsi guy.)
[A note from John Allen: I tried this. One part of the chain got twisted into a little loop inside the bottle, and I had to cut the mouth of the bottle open to get the chain out. I'm glad it was a plastic bottle! Use a bottle with a mouth at least two inches across.]
The other major way to clean chains is with an on-the-bike cleaning machine. These are boxes which clip over the lower run of chain. They contain brushes and rollers that flex the chain and run it through a bath of solvent.
The off-the-bike approach has the advantage that it usually uses more solvent than will fit into an on-the-bike cleaning machine. Thus, it can dilute away more of the scuzz from the chain.
[But it drips solvent all over the sprockets, and besides, they probably also need cleaning, which is easier with the chain removed. Park Tool makes a special brush to clean prockets, with a toothed hook on the other end to extract grunge from between the sprockets -- John Allen].
The on-the-bike system has the advantage that the cleaning machine flexes the links and spins the rollers. This scrubbing action may do a better job of cleaning the innards.
[Another note from John Allen: Want to get a chain really clean? Here's one way.
It has to be a modern 4-unit chain, as Sheldon recommends, so liquids can easily flow through it. Take it off the bicycle, and first wash it in solvent in a bottle, with a toothbrush, whatever. Then coil it up so it makes a single layer in the bottom of an old stainless steel or aluminum frying pan. (Don't use a cast-iron skillet for this job: you would remove the layer of hardened oil that keeps it from rusting.) A 6-inch pan is big enough for a typical chain. Pour in a heavy concentration of dishwashing detergent in water, and boil the chain. Boiling will liquefy congealed lubricant and wash it out of the chain. If you're a real fanatic, turn the chain over and do this again with it lying on its other side. Spill the liquid out and repeat with clean rinse water. Spill that out and cook the chain dry in the bottom of the pan until the water boils out of it, so it doesn't rust. Then relubricate. This is a smelly procedure and you probably want to do it on a hot plate outdoors rather than on your kitchen stove.
Now, if you had that special grease which chain manufacturers use, you could heat it up in the pan and it would liquefy and flow into the chain links -- same idea as when waxing the chain.]
The rollers ride up on the sloped teeth until they reach a radius that corresponds to the longer pitch of the worn chain. The effective diameter (and thus, the effective pitch) of the sprocket has become larger, since the chain is no longer riding in the bottoms of the valleys.
Since the teeth/rollers on our left are doing most of the work the load is concentrated on them.
In addition, as the roller follows its tooth around the sprocket it rolls up the "ramp," while under load. This promotes wear to the insides of the rollers and to the "bushings" they roll on. With a properly meshed chain, the roller only turns a tiny bit as it rolls onto and off of the chain.
[Again, this is a photo of a hanging chain. The links could not ride higher and higher as they come around to the top and still engage the back of each tooth. I still need to check, but I think instead that the links must ride lower and lower as they come around to the top. Indeed, that is what the photo appears to show for the first few engaged links at the right side.
If the last link at the bottom of the sprocket rides too high, it lands on top of a tooth, and the chain slips forward when that link comes around to the top. A chain held in place by rear axle position rather than a derailer or idler is forced into engagement with a worn sprocket, but then each link is heavily stressed as it engages.
Modern sprockets designed for easy shifting have short teeth. Taller sprockets can develop a hooked shape. It is often possible to flip a worn sprocket over, or grind off the hooks to give it a new lease on life -- not possible though with specially shaped and ramped sprockets, and not recommended with a fixed gear or coaster brake, which pulls the chain in both directions. -- John Allen]
This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets. first, let's look at how to do this with a ruler that measures in inches.
In metric measurement, 10 links of a new chain are 25.4 cm, or 15 links, 38.1 cm.
There are also special tools made to measure chain wear; these are a bit more convenient, though by no means necessary, and most -- except for the Shimano TL-CN40 and TL-CN41 -- are inaccurate because they allow roller play to confound the measurement of rivet-pin wear.
See also Jobst Brandt on Chain Maintenance
and if you are a real fanatic about chain cleaning...try this.
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