Search sheldonbrown.com Search sheldonbrown.org Search WWW

A-B-C-D-E-F-G-H-I-J-K-L-M-N-O-P-Q-R-S-T-U-V-W-X-Y-Z

Up to previous page

N.D.S.

See "D.S."

Nervex ®

Noted manufacturer of lugs, no longer in business. Nervex Lugs

Newton

The official metric unit of force.

1 Newton = .2248 pounds

An unofficial metric unit of force is the kilopond or "kilogram of force." This is the force exerted by the weight of a 1 kilogram mass in normal earth gravity, and is equal to 9.81 Newtons or 2.2 pounds.

The "kilogram of force" is a disreputable unit, abhored by pedantic purists. Nevertheless, it is commonly used in the bicycle industry, particularly when dealing with spoke tension, since the most popular tensiometer is calibrated in these units.

Nexus ®

Shimano trademark for parts relating to internal gearing and hub generators.

This site includes a Nexus Gear Hub Technical Page and an on-line version of the Nexus 8-speed Service Manual.

"Ninth" gear

Many beginner cyclists assume that there must be some standard sequence of gears on a multi-speed bike, for instance that a 10-speed bike must have a "1st gear, 2nd gear 3rd...10th."

In fact there is no such standard gear numbering system, nor should there be, because some gears put the chain at bad angles, and should not be used.

I know of 4 different "systems" for numbering the gears of a 10 speed:

  1. The 5 gears using the small chainwheel are 1-5, those that use the large chainwheel, 6-10

  2. The 5 gears using the small chainwheel get the odd numbers 1-3-5-7-9, large 2-4-6-8-10

  3. The gears can be ranked numerically by how high each gear is. The pattern would then depend on the sizes of the sprockets involved.

  4. I used to know an engineer who used a variation on the previous system: He plotted everything out on semi-logarithmic graph paper, and came to the conclusion that his 10 speed was actually a 12 speed that was missing 2nd and 11th. He numbered his gears 1,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,12.

As you can see, if you try to actually communicate with somebody about your bike and use a term such as "9th gear" you will probably fail to communicate.

When discussing issues related to the function of the derailers, it is better to refer to "the second largest rear sprocket" or "the middle chainwheel".

When discussing issues related to the biomechanical aspects of gearing, it is better to use terms that relate to the actual ratios, such as gain ratio, gear inches or development.

Nipple

The nut that secures the end of a spoke to the rim of a bicycle wheel. Nipples have a normal right-hand thread, but because they are normally seen from the "bolt" side, it is often confusing which way to turn them. It is as if you were watching the hands of a clock move clockwise, but the clock was transparent, and you were looking from behind it.

Of all the things bicycle mechanics do, adjusting spoke nipples is the one that requires the most skill and experience. If you wish to learn more about this process, see my article on Wheelbuilding.

Nitto ®

Leading Japanese manufacturer of handlebars and stems, most notably the Technomic stem.

N.J.S.

N.J.S. (Nihon Jitensha Shinkokai-the Japanese Bicycling Association) is the governing body of Keirin racing.

They have very strict standards, with the intention of preventing mechanical failure and "leveling the playing field" among the athletes.

Not all of the N.J.S. standards actually relate to quality as such, but rather act to promote interchangeability of parts and tools.

N.J.S. threading and sizing standards are generally the same as Campagnolo track parts.

Noodle

A curved piece of tubing commonly used to lead the brake cable around a right-angle bend where it attaches to a direct-pull cantilever brake, such as a Shimano V-brake ®. Most direct-pull brakes come with alternate noodles to accommodate left-front or right-front setup.*******

Non Turn Washer

See: Anti-rotation Washer

Normal

This is a slippery, dangerous term, because what's normal to one person at one time is abnormal to another person, another time. The use of "normal" to describe brake reach is a very common source of confusion and trouble.

North Road bend

North RoadThe style of handlebar used on most English 3-speed bicycles. This is a fairly narrow bar with a slight rise, grips nearly parallel to the frame.

This design was formerly associated with the North Road Cycle Club, north of London. It is a reversible design, most often used in the upright position, but quite serviceable in the dropped position as well, for a more agressive riding position. In the reversed position, it resembles a Moustache handlebar, but with sharper bends and a bit more drop.

N.O.S.

"New, Old Stock. Refers to classic parts and accessories that have never been sold or put into use.

Nuovo

Italian for "new" as in the Campagnolo model names "Nuovo Record" (New Record) and Nuovo Tipo (New type).

Campagnolo Nuovo Record rear derailer N.R.

Nuovo Record, the classic Campagnolo parts group of the '70s and early '80s. Some of the parts in this group, particularly the derailers, were different from the previous "Record" group; others were the same.

Nut

A fastener with female threads, usually hexagonal on the outside to fit a suitable wrench. The male thread equivalent is called a "bolt" or sometimes a "screw."
Acorn Nut, Nylock Nut, Jam Nut

Nutted

A conventional, non-quick-release hub, with a solid axle. Nuts and washers are used to secure the axle to the frame or fork.

Octalink ®

Shimano's system of splined bottom brackets.

Octalink ® cranks come in one of two different spline patterns:

Square Taper, Octalink V1 and V2, ISIS Bottom Brackets

O.E.M.

Original Equipment Manufacturer. This refers to parts sold by a parts manufacturer to a bicycle manufacturer for installation on new bicycles at the factory

Offset

Fork rake

Oil

****

O.L.D.

Over Locknut Dimension.

One-piece Crank

DESCRIPTION A one-piece crank (OPC) consists of a single steel forging which constitutes the left crank, axle, and right crank in a single piece of steel. This type of crank set is found on older U.S. made bicycles, and many current low-end bicycles. It is also commonly used on BMX and freestyle bicycles.

One piece, or "Ashtabula" cranks are heavy but very strong and reliable. They are also much easier to work on than any other type of crankset, requiring no special tools. You can completely overhaul a one-piece-crank bottom bracket with just a large adjustable wrench and a screwdriver.

There are two different threadings used on one-piece cranks. Most are 24 threads/inch, but some, notably older Schwinn and Mongoose bicycles, used 28 tpi. The bearing retainers and cups are also slightly different between the two models. Although they both use 5/16" balls, 24 tpi units use a #66 retainer with 10 balls, while the 28 tpi units use a #64 retainer, with 9 balls. This is one application where retainers are essential, it is almost impossible to assemble a one-piece crank bottom bracket with loose balls.

One-piece cranks only fit in bicycles designed for them, with large-diameter, threadless bottom brackets. It is possible to buy adapter kits to allow three-piece cranks to be used in this type of bottom bracket shell.

One-piece cranks are made in a smaller diameter than other crank designs, so that the bearing cones can be installed. As a result, they have to use a smaller diameter (1/2" x 20 tpi) pedal thread.

The left side cone has a left thread, and uses a lock nut and keyed washer to secure the adjustment. The right side cone has a right thread, and secures the chainwheel to the crank.

See my article on One-piece Cranks.

O.T.B.

This abbreviation has at least three bicycle-related meanings:

Ordinary

A long-obsolete term for a high-wheel bicycle, as opposed to a "safety" bicycle, i.e., a modern style.

Back in the 1890s, this term made sense, but using it nowadays is silly and only causes confusion.

Over-Locknut-Dimension

DESCRIPTION

The distance between the outermost locknuts of a conventional hub axle, or whatever equivalent parts fit against the inside surfaces of the fork ends of a frame. They must match the spacing (see chart) of the frame that the wheels are to be installed in.

Oversized

Larger in diameter than the traditional sizes. This term is commonly used for headsets and frame tubing. Oversized parts are stiffer, and can be lighter for their weight if the walls are made thin enough. If the walls become too thin, however, they become too easy to damage by denting.

Traditional forks used 1" (25.4 mm) diameter steerers. Oversized steerers are 1 1/8" (8.6 mm) or, less commonly, 1 1/4" (31.8 mm). Details on sizes are listed under headsets.

Traditional frames used 1" (25.4 mm) top tubes, 1 1/8" (28.6 mm) seat tubes and down tubes, and 1 1/4" (31.8 mm) head tubes. When BMX racing became popular, frames built to these old standards couldn't always hold up to the rigors of BMX competition. Since the wide availability of T.I.G. welding freed designers from the need to use tubes that would fit standard-size lugs, oversized tubing became the norm for BMX frames. This design and technology was later adopted by builders of mountain bikes.

In the interest of improved chainwheel/tire clearance, some mountain bikes have "oversized" bottom brackets, with a shell width of 73 mm, rather than the standard 68 mm.

Down to next page

A-B-C-D-E-F-G-H-I-J-K-L-M-N-O-P-Q-R-S-T-U-V-W-X-Y-Z

Spoke Divider

Feedback? Questions?

Articles by Sheldon Brown and others
Harris
Home
Beginners Brakes Commuting
Lights
Cycle-
Computers
Do-It-
Yourself
Essays
Family
Cycling
Fixed Gear
Singlespeed
Frames Gears &
Drivetrain
Bicycle
Humor
Bicycle
Glossary
Bicycle
Links
Old
Bikes
Repair
Tips
Tandems Touring What's
New
Wheels Sheldon
Brown

Accessories Bicycles Parts Specials Tools

Since May 4, 1996

Copyright © 1996, 2008 Sheldon Brown

Back to Harris Cyclery Home Page

If you would like to make a link or bookmark to this page, the URL is:
http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_m-o.html

If you would like to make a link or bookmark to this glossary, the URL is:
http://sheldonbrown.com/glossary

If you would like to make a link or bookmark to a specific definition, that's fine too. I am committed to keeping the urls stable, so I won't be breaking your link.

blank